Thrall

To get this 1/6 scale Thrall looking like the “Wicked” studio version, you’ll want to focus on material definition. This means making the skin look soft and organic, while the armor looks cold and hard.

Here is the deep-dive breakdown for each section of the model:

1. The Orcish Skin (The Green Machine)

Thrall’s skin in the Reign of Chaos era is a vibrant, healthy green, but the shadows are very dark.

  • Shadows: Start with Dark Green. Focus this on the underside of the arms, the deep gaps between the abdominal muscles, and under the jawline.
  • Mid-tone: Layer Camouflage Green over about 70% of the muscle mass. Use thin “glaze” layers (thinned with water) to smooth the transition between the Dark Green and the Camouflage Green.
  • Highlight: Mix Ivory into your Camouflage Green (about a 1:2 ratio). Apply this to the “peaks”—the tops of the pectorals, the knuckles, the tip of the nose, and the bridge of the brow.
  • Texture: On a 1/6 scale model, you can add tiny dots of your highlight color on the shoulders to simulate skin pores or “battle-worn” skin texture.

2. The Plate Armor (Black-Blue Steel)

This is “The Plate of Orgrim Doomhammer.” It shouldn’t look like bright silver; it should look heavy and obsidian-like.

  • Base: Apply Dark Sea Blue to all the flat panels. This color is unique because it’s a very dark, desaturated navy that looks like tempered steel.
  • Shading: Use Black Grey in the center of the plates or near the bottom to create a “gradient” effect.
  • Trims: Use Brass for all the filigree and raised edges. To make the brass look aged, you can mix a tiny drop of Dark Green into your brass for the deepest crevices (simulating verdigris/tarnish).
  • Final Edge: Use Silver RLM 01 only on the very sharpest corners of the brass and the blue plates to simulate where the armor has been “nicked” by blades.

3. The Doomhammer (Legendary Weapon)

  • The Head: Base in Steel. To make it look “heavier,” apply a thin wash of Black Grey (heavily thinned) over the whole metal surface to dull the shine.
  • The Glow: This is the “Magic” moment. Paint the recessed runes with Ivory first. Once dry, take Electric Blue and thin it until it’s the consistency of milk. Let it “drop” into the runes. The white Ivory will make the blue look like it’s glowing from within.
  • The Handle: Use Chocolate Brown. Highlight the “ribs” of the grip with Flat Earth to show where Thrall’s hands have worn the leather down.

4. Fur and Fabric (Organic Textures)

  • The Fur Mantle: This is a “cool” white/grey. Start with a base of Black Grey. Drybrush heavily with a 50/50 mix of Black Grey and Ivory. Finish with a very light drybrush of pure Ivory only on the tips of the fur.
  • Leather Straps: Use Cam. Black Brown. Use Flat Earth to draw tiny “cracks” or lines along the edges of the straps to make them look like aged, stressed cowhide.
  • The Braids: Thrall’s hair is iconic. Use Cam. Black Brown and highlight the individual “turns” of the braid with Black Grey to give it a slight sheen without making it look “grey-haired.”

5. The Base (The Barrens/Horde Aesthetic)

  • Horde Banners: These should be a striking Flat Red. To make them look like fabric, avoid using silver for highlights. Instead, mix Flat Earth into your Red for the highlights—this makes the red look “dusty” and sun-bleached.
  • Spikes/Tusks: Use Ivory as the base. At the very bottom (where the tusk meets the wood/flesh), apply a thin layer of Chocolate Brown and blend it upward to create a “stained” look.
  • Rocks: Base in Black Grey, drybrush with Ivory, and then add “spots” of Flat Earth in the cracks to simulate dirt and dried mud.

Final Polish: The Eyes

For that “Glow,” paint the entire eye socket Flat Red. Then, put a tiny, tiny dot of Ivory right in the center of the eye. Finally, glaze a bit more Flat Red over the Ivory. This creates a “light source” effect that makes him look possessed by shamanistic (or demonic) rage!

Which of these areas are you planning to tackle first? The skin usually takes the longest!